A year ago today we were on I-65 - a one way trip south.
It has been a year of adventure, a few mis-adventures, and a steep learning curve. Most of all it has been about friends.
At our starting point in Mobile we met Jeff and Sue on their trimaran with their 3 teenage daughters. They are in Marathon now, as are Des and Betty who we met in Carrabelle. Jim and Abby (also met in Carrabelle) called last week and they are headed to Marathon in January.
Chuck and Leah (again, Carabelle) were the best dockside neighbors anyone could ask for.
Skip and Caroline (Destin) lost their boat going aground, otherwise I suspect they would be here too.
We chased Gary and Lisa from Port St. Joe to Carabelle and got to Clearwater a few hours ahead of them after we had a three day head start. We met Skip and Rose in Clearwater and they helped us in so many ways besides entertaining us.
In Fort Meyers we met many of the liveaboard/cruisers but Bob frequently kept us entertained at sundown. It was Lindsey and Lynne loaning us their car that saved us during the hot summer days and gave us the freedom to explore the area.
In Marathon, Larry and Linda have shown us around. When Larry expounds politically or philosophically De Anne rolls her eyes because she has heard the exact same positions from me. Linda is an accomplished seamtress and we have benefited from her skills. They introduced us to Lou and Deb. Deb is as aggressive a sailor as De Anne!
Nancy and Ginny have added to our cruising knowledge based on their years of experience.
Peter with his delightful Austrialian accent and droll sense of humor adds to the fun.
Tut makes the best Cajun oyster dressing and has an extensive inventory of boat parts in his truck. One time he pulled over when De Anne was walking down the street, found out we needed 5/8" flax packing, reached down and handed her a package of it. How many folks carry 5/8"" flax packing in their vehicle?
We do stay in touch with old friends too, from Lake Monroe, the State House, and Carmel.
All the places we have been in the past year, all the new sites and scenery are pictures framed by friends.
Thursday, December 31, 2009
Monday, December 14, 2009
Back to Marathon
We left our mooring Tuesday morning and staged outside the Marathon harbor for an early Wednesday departure. The predicted wind from the south did happen and we were off at dawn.
Within a couple miles we were past the reef and into the open ocean. Also into the ocean swell. I have been seasick before, but never like this! I now fully understand the old description: "First you are afraid you are going to die, then you are afraid you're not." After 5 hours of this I feebly begged De Anne to take shelter inside the Channel Five bridge we had just passed.
We anchored in Jewfish Bay where I slowly recovered. Thursday we motored north in a flat calm. The generator and electric motor kept us going all day at a sedate 2.8 - 3.0 knots using just 12-16 amps. Unfortunately, several times our speed dropped below 2 knots and I got a chance to stop the boat and go swimming (in mask and flippers) to clear the prop of weeds. We anchored at Cape Sable and discussed new plans.
Consulting the cruising guide, the warnings about not going to Marco Island, Naples, or Fort Myers Beach during the Holidays are quite explicit. The hordes of boaters all head there this time of year. Since going north was out we went south - back to Marathon.
To add to the fun our propane system gave up the ghost and the packing in the rudder finally failed. I will purchase a new propane system in Key West tomorrow and then take care of the rudder packing.
On our first day back in Marathon De Anne attended a ladies-only wine-tasting party. I am one lucky man! When she told our sad tale of an aborted Bahamas trip other women had even worse stories of failed Gulf crossings. Thank the Lord - I am saved!!!
Tuesday morning in Marathon (picture courtesy of Linda & Larry):
....and my picture of Linda & Larry (poorer quality than their picture):
Sunset Tuesday night:
A few hours after our return - a visit from Santa::
Within a couple miles we were past the reef and into the open ocean. Also into the ocean swell. I have been seasick before, but never like this! I now fully understand the old description: "First you are afraid you are going to die, then you are afraid you're not." After 5 hours of this I feebly begged De Anne to take shelter inside the Channel Five bridge we had just passed.
We anchored in Jewfish Bay where I slowly recovered. Thursday we motored north in a flat calm. The generator and electric motor kept us going all day at a sedate 2.8 - 3.0 knots using just 12-16 amps. Unfortunately, several times our speed dropped below 2 knots and I got a chance to stop the boat and go swimming (in mask and flippers) to clear the prop of weeds. We anchored at Cape Sable and discussed new plans.
Consulting the cruising guide, the warnings about not going to Marco Island, Naples, or Fort Myers Beach during the Holidays are quite explicit. The hordes of boaters all head there this time of year. Since going north was out we went south - back to Marathon.
To add to the fun our propane system gave up the ghost and the packing in the rudder finally failed. I will purchase a new propane system in Key West tomorrow and then take care of the rudder packing.
On our first day back in Marathon De Anne attended a ladies-only wine-tasting party. I am one lucky man! When she told our sad tale of an aborted Bahamas trip other women had even worse stories of failed Gulf crossings. Thank the Lord - I am saved!!!
Tuesday morning in Marathon (picture courtesy of Linda & Larry):
....and my picture of Linda & Larry (poorer quality than their picture):
Sunset Tuesday night:
A few hours after our return - a visit from Santa::
Friday, December 4, 2009
Missed Opportunties
Last week we missed a weather window because of a dental appointment for De Anne, so yesterday's window was not to be missed. We spent a hectic Wednesday morning in last minute preparation and stocking. Our indolent lifestyle had left us with many things to do before slipping the mooring ball.
Finally, one more chore - reinstall the speedo. A speedo is a device with a paddlewheel that fits through a hole in the bottom of the boat. The paddleweel turns as the boat moves and measures speed through the water and displays it in the cockpit. The infernal device has not worked most of the year. One well placed barnacle can render it useless. In Fort Myers I had fixed it but not reinstalled it. I was quite proud of the repair since I had used a 99 cent cotter pin instead of the $35 pin that would have to be ordered and shipped. I removed the plug, opening a 2 inch diameter hole underwater. Try to imagine my dismay when the speedo did not slide into place stopping the geyser. I quickly re-inserted the plug and listened to the bilge pump take off.
After inpecting the speedo I realized the cotter pin was interfering with the close tolerance of the speedo and it's fitting. My next mistake was using pliers to "fix" the cotter pin (some boys don't know when to back off!). Now I was ready for the second geyser episode. It fit better but still baulking and of course water was still coming in. Time for the next mistake - hit it with a hammer. That drove the speedo in but still a trickle of water. Nothing the pumps couldn't handle.
It was time to quit making mistakes and do the right thing. I called the closest marina and arrainged for the boat to be pulled. The $35 I saved only cost me an extra $700. I taught the speedo a lesson. I threw it away and had the marina fiberglass the hole. My chartplotter has GPS SOG (speed over ground) and that will now be sufficent.
Some good came of this - we scraped 20 pounds of barnacles from the hull and prop. We now have one less thru-hull to worry about and we saw a manatee up close in the marina.
Rising Star at the boat yard:
Our close encounter with a manatee:
It is aganist the law to feed fresh water to a manatee because it attracts them to marinas where they are injured by boat props. A nice little man walked by and turned the hose on and left telling me to turn it off. I did so, but not before the manatee roled onto his back and got a drink. I then realized the fiendish plot perpetrated on me. My fingerprints were the last on the hose spigot. I have eluded the authorities so far......
Finally, one more chore - reinstall the speedo. A speedo is a device with a paddlewheel that fits through a hole in the bottom of the boat. The paddleweel turns as the boat moves and measures speed through the water and displays it in the cockpit. The infernal device has not worked most of the year. One well placed barnacle can render it useless. In Fort Myers I had fixed it but not reinstalled it. I was quite proud of the repair since I had used a 99 cent cotter pin instead of the $35 pin that would have to be ordered and shipped. I removed the plug, opening a 2 inch diameter hole underwater. Try to imagine my dismay when the speedo did not slide into place stopping the geyser. I quickly re-inserted the plug and listened to the bilge pump take off.
After inpecting the speedo I realized the cotter pin was interfering with the close tolerance of the speedo and it's fitting. My next mistake was using pliers to "fix" the cotter pin (some boys don't know when to back off!). Now I was ready for the second geyser episode. It fit better but still baulking and of course water was still coming in. Time for the next mistake - hit it with a hammer. That drove the speedo in but still a trickle of water. Nothing the pumps couldn't handle.
It was time to quit making mistakes and do the right thing. I called the closest marina and arrainged for the boat to be pulled. The $35 I saved only cost me an extra $700. I taught the speedo a lesson. I threw it away and had the marina fiberglass the hole. My chartplotter has GPS SOG (speed over ground) and that will now be sufficent.
Some good came of this - we scraped 20 pounds of barnacles from the hull and prop. We now have one less thru-hull to worry about and we saw a manatee up close in the marina.
Rising Star at the boat yard:
Our close encounter with a manatee:
It is aganist the law to feed fresh water to a manatee because it attracts them to marinas where they are injured by boat props. A nice little man walked by and turned the hose on and left telling me to turn it off. I did so, but not before the manatee roled onto his back and got a drink. I then realized the fiendish plot perpetrated on me. My fingerprints were the last on the hose spigot. I have eluded the authorities so far......
Tuesday, December 1, 2009
Strange Lights
The City park, of which the marina is part of, is decorated for Christmas. Street lights are wound with evergreens and festooned with big red bows. The highlight is the special - only in the keys - light display.
A Christmas fish:
The traditional Holiday flamingo:
The season would not be complete without an alligator attacking an elf:
Our neighbors on Willow (42 Valiant) Nancy and Ginny visited us for sundowners Friday then treated us to a great turkey dinner. Their onboard oven was large enough for a whole turkey.
Nancy doing repairs from a bosun's chair while Ginny offers encourgement from the deck:
In answer to the burning question "Why are you still there??". The same old answer - waiting for a weather window. We have about given up on a big enough window to go directly to the Bahamas and will settle for one to No Name Harbor, south of Miami, where we can make the Gulf Stream jump in one day. No hurry - saftey and comfort comes first!
A Christmas fish:
The traditional Holiday flamingo:
The season would not be complete without an alligator attacking an elf:
Our neighbors on Willow (42 Valiant) Nancy and Ginny visited us for sundowners Friday then treated us to a great turkey dinner. Their onboard oven was large enough for a whole turkey.
Nancy doing repairs from a bosun's chair while Ginny offers encourgement from the deck:
In answer to the burning question "Why are you still there??". The same old answer - waiting for a weather window. We have about given up on a big enough window to go directly to the Bahamas and will settle for one to No Name Harbor, south of Miami, where we can make the Gulf Stream jump in one day. No hurry - saftey and comfort comes first!
Wednesday, November 25, 2009
Electricity
I use to be proud of my solar panels - a 48 volt, 200 watt panel for the 8 motor batteries and a 12 volt, 50 watt panel for the 2 house batteries.
When it comes to producing electricity here in Boot Key Harbor I am small change. Here amid the cruisers, many have 3 or 4 - 75 to 100 watt panels plus a wind generator. One motorsailor has 2,000 watts of panels on his pilothouse top and his bimini. He can run his waterheater plus his air conditioner every day off solar power. The wind generators are interesting in that they need about 10 knots of wind to start producing, but at around 25 knots they howl like a helicopter taking off, then the blades feather and they power down to protect the machinery. After a few minutes they cycle back up and repeat the process.
If that's not enough most cruisers are equiped with a Honda 2000i generator. At least I can hold my head up in that regard! Today is a second cloudly day with just a bit of wind so the harbor will softly hum tonight with the sound of all those quiet Hondas (including mine) producing the needed amps.
Update Wednesday:
Last night, actually about 2:30 am, the wind picked up and a storm rolled in. A few readers may be aware of my usual sound sleep trait. This one woke me up. The wind peaked at 117 miles per hour. all boats were heeled way over, a few were knocked down, and one turtled. Afterwards the harbor waters were littered with deck cans, fenders, and hatches. We have experienced 60 mile winds a couple times. It is impossible to describe 117 mile winds. We had to shout inside a closed boat. Everything, including us, was vibrating. Rain was moving horizontally and hitting like BB's.
Many dingys were flipped and outboards submerged. A lot of guys spent the morning pickling outboards in an attempt to save them. Pickling is removing the salt water, cleaning with fresh water, then oiling the motor inside and out. Sometimes this attempt is successful. We always tie our dingy with forward and stern lines to cleats on the side. We could see it airborne but it survived because of the 2 point tie. Those who secured dinks with a single line to the stern suffered for it.
We had closed and secured our bimini Tuesday evening so it was saved - several lost theirs.
The folks in the marina will still try for a Thanksgiving pitch-in dinner at the Dockside Bar & Grill even though it is about half down. When De Anne and I dingied over a little while ago they were still clearing debris. I'll get some turkey somehow!
When it comes to producing electricity here in Boot Key Harbor I am small change. Here amid the cruisers, many have 3 or 4 - 75 to 100 watt panels plus a wind generator. One motorsailor has 2,000 watts of panels on his pilothouse top and his bimini. He can run his waterheater plus his air conditioner every day off solar power. The wind generators are interesting in that they need about 10 knots of wind to start producing, but at around 25 knots they howl like a helicopter taking off, then the blades feather and they power down to protect the machinery. After a few minutes they cycle back up and repeat the process.
If that's not enough most cruisers are equiped with a Honda 2000i generator. At least I can hold my head up in that regard! Today is a second cloudly day with just a bit of wind so the harbor will softly hum tonight with the sound of all those quiet Hondas (including mine) producing the needed amps.
Update Wednesday:
Last night, actually about 2:30 am, the wind picked up and a storm rolled in. A few readers may be aware of my usual sound sleep trait. This one woke me up. The wind peaked at 117 miles per hour. all boats were heeled way over, a few were knocked down, and one turtled. Afterwards the harbor waters were littered with deck cans, fenders, and hatches. We have experienced 60 mile winds a couple times. It is impossible to describe 117 mile winds. We had to shout inside a closed boat. Everything, including us, was vibrating. Rain was moving horizontally and hitting like BB's.
Many dingys were flipped and outboards submerged. A lot of guys spent the morning pickling outboards in an attempt to save them. Pickling is removing the salt water, cleaning with fresh water, then oiling the motor inside and out. Sometimes this attempt is successful. We always tie our dingy with forward and stern lines to cleats on the side. We could see it airborne but it survived because of the 2 point tie. Those who secured dinks with a single line to the stern suffered for it.
We had closed and secured our bimini Tuesday evening so it was saved - several lost theirs.
The folks in the marina will still try for a Thanksgiving pitch-in dinner at the Dockside Bar & Grill even though it is about half down. When De Anne and I dingied over a little while ago they were still clearing debris. I'll get some turkey somehow!
Friday, November 20, 2009
And now, back to the fun......
We took a day trip to Pigeon Key, orginally settled as a work camp for the railroad. Now a delightful small island restored with it's historic past still evident in a few remaining buildings.
The pictures speak for themselves.
The island landing :
Blue Heron waiting motionless for lunch to swim by:
Our picnic lunch view:
De Anne swims with the fish (and one nurse shark):
This is a Christmas Palm - kinda obvious name isn't it?:
The pictures speak for themselves.
The island landing :
Blue Heron waiting motionless for lunch to swim by:
Our picnic lunch view:
De Anne swims with the fish (and one nurse shark):
This is a Christmas Palm - kinda obvious name isn't it?:
Wednesday, November 18, 2009
A few technical details
It's not all fun and games in sunny Florida. Replacing the burned out battery charger has been a comedy of errors - I just haven't been laughing.
The new charger was a special order from West Marine. It was to be delivered within 5business days. After a week I called the store and they said it was on the way. After 2 weeks I went to the store in person and leaned over the manager's desk until he tracked it down. It had been delivered to a sunny locale alright - California. By the time I got it the charger had traveled more miles than I could hope to cover in a couple years.
Meanwhile, after ignoring several emails from me the Zivan charger folks got a rather biting email from me and decided I needed to send it in for repair. After a hundred dollar repair and $60 in shipping I got it back. Unfortunately the burned out connector had 2 pieces and they forgot to include 1 of the 2 connectors in the return package. They readily admitted the mistake and when I requested they send it overnight they refused unless I paid the shipping charge. The conversation when downhill rapidly. I found an electric car shop in Marathon who will have the part for me this Friday.
We are seeing a small glimmer of a weather window opening this weekend. We are trying not to get too hopeful too soon, after all (I know I sound like a broken record) NOAA weather reports often lie.
The Marathon dingy dock at an uncrowded moment:
The new charger was a special order from West Marine. It was to be delivered within 5business days. After a week I called the store and they said it was on the way. After 2 weeks I went to the store in person and leaned over the manager's desk until he tracked it down. It had been delivered to a sunny locale alright - California. By the time I got it the charger had traveled more miles than I could hope to cover in a couple years.
Meanwhile, after ignoring several emails from me the Zivan charger folks got a rather biting email from me and decided I needed to send it in for repair. After a hundred dollar repair and $60 in shipping I got it back. Unfortunately the burned out connector had 2 pieces and they forgot to include 1 of the 2 connectors in the return package. They readily admitted the mistake and when I requested they send it overnight they refused unless I paid the shipping charge. The conversation when downhill rapidly. I found an electric car shop in Marathon who will have the part for me this Friday.
We are seeing a small glimmer of a weather window opening this weekend. We are trying not to get too hopeful too soon, after all (I know I sound like a broken record) NOAA weather reports often lie.
The Marathon dingy dock at an uncrowded moment:
Wednesday, November 11, 2009
The Cruisers day
A day in the life of a cruiser (at least De Anne and Merrick on Tuesday) began at 7:00 am with coffee in the cockpit. We did a little cleanup and reading until the daily Cruisers Net at 9:00 am which covers upcoming events, buying and selling gear, weather, and any help needed.
We packed a lunch and drove the dingy out Sisters Creek, through the mangroves, to Sombrero Beach. There is a small dingy beach just inside the ocean cut where we landed, stripped the dingy and flipped it over to scrape and brush away the saltwater flora and fauna that had made a home on the bottom of our dingy during the past two weeks.
De Anne hard at work:
I napped in the shade of a palm tree while De Anne strolled the beach. After her return I watched a fisherman land and very carefully unhook a two foot shark. Sneaking back to our palm tree - not too difficult in sand - I caught De Anne in a rare moment of calm repose:
We returned to the boat in early afternoon and made a trip to the marina for showers. With the mooring all boats get an access card for the restrooms. There are about a dozen individual bathrooms. You slide the card, open the door slowly so you can shut it quick if someone screams or worse, invites you in to wash their back, although most folks remember to throw the dead bolt once inside rendering the card useless for that door.
We ran into Peter who had just flown back from a long weekend in Trinidad and made plans to go to the Hurricane for dinner. Tut, a local mooring field resident, had alerted us to dollar taco night so the four of us had a fun evening at the local watering hole.
The wind has finally calmed down so our evening dingy ride back to the boat was our first one in days that did not end with "dingy bottom". This is a condition where powering through choppy water leaves you with a saltwater rinse by the time you return home.
We read for a while and called it a night, retiring to our gently rocking berth.
It's hard to call this a typical day because there is always something different going on or chores to do but it is usually relaxed and free-flowing whenever we are docked, moored, or anchored in a safe place like Marathon.
Sister Creek is a little wider than the Indiana version of creeks:
We packed a lunch and drove the dingy out Sisters Creek, through the mangroves, to Sombrero Beach. There is a small dingy beach just inside the ocean cut where we landed, stripped the dingy and flipped it over to scrape and brush away the saltwater flora and fauna that had made a home on the bottom of our dingy during the past two weeks.
De Anne hard at work:
I napped in the shade of a palm tree while De Anne strolled the beach. After her return I watched a fisherman land and very carefully unhook a two foot shark. Sneaking back to our palm tree - not too difficult in sand - I caught De Anne in a rare moment of calm repose:
We returned to the boat in early afternoon and made a trip to the marina for showers. With the mooring all boats get an access card for the restrooms. There are about a dozen individual bathrooms. You slide the card, open the door slowly so you can shut it quick if someone screams or worse, invites you in to wash their back, although most folks remember to throw the dead bolt once inside rendering the card useless for that door.
We ran into Peter who had just flown back from a long weekend in Trinidad and made plans to go to the Hurricane for dinner. Tut, a local mooring field resident, had alerted us to dollar taco night so the four of us had a fun evening at the local watering hole.
The wind has finally calmed down so our evening dingy ride back to the boat was our first one in days that did not end with "dingy bottom". This is a condition where powering through choppy water leaves you with a saltwater rinse by the time you return home.
We read for a while and called it a night, retiring to our gently rocking berth.
It's hard to call this a typical day because there is always something different going on or chores to do but it is usually relaxed and free-flowing whenever we are docked, moored, or anchored in a safe place like Marathon.
Sister Creek is a little wider than the Indiana version of creeks:
Friday, November 6, 2009
Trapped in Paradise
Here we are for a second week in Marathon FL. Please suffer with us! Highs in the low 80's and lows in the mid 70's. Shore-side amusements are a short walk or dingy ride away. Our new Suzuki four-stroke dingy motor is a delight and unlike our old motor De Anne can run this one solo. She has her freedom back.
We have a new neighbor Peter, solo sailing on Bowtie Lady who left Sydney, Australia a couple years ago going through the Indian Ocean, around Cape Good Hope, across the Atlantic, up through the Carribean to New York and back down to Marathon. His stories are facinating and made more so by his accent. However I am not tempted to emulate his adventure even with intrepid sailor De Anne at my side. As Dirty Harry said "A man's got to know his limitations". A few days at a time at sea is sufficent for my adventure level.
Some work is involved in our stay here. I am waiting for my new battery charger and the old has been sent off for repair. A few other boat repairs are on my list and of course De Anne continues her never ending struggle to keep the boat spic and span in the face of Mother Nature's steady and relentless march to corrosion and wear.
The weather makes our time here worth every penny. Here is a sample NOAA report for today. Same tomorrow, in fact as far as the forecast goes for a week:
TONIGHT THROUGH SATURDAY NIGHT NORTHEAST TO EAST WINDS 25 TO 30 KNOTS...WITH OCCASIONAL GUSTS NEAR 35 KNOTS. SEAS BEYOND THE REEF 8 TO 11 FEET...EXCEPT HIGHER IN THE GULF STREAM. SEAS INSIDE THE REEF 3 TO 5 FEET. NEARSHORE WATERS EXTREMELY ROUGH. SCATTERED SHOWERS.
Don't you just love the offhand comment "....except higher in the Gulf Stream."
Anyone wishing to spy on us - we are on the Boot key webcam http://www.ci.marathon.fl.us/index.aspx?NID=600 . On the screen showing boats in a V formation with a can bouy at the bottom of the V. Count up 4 boats at a left 45 degree angle from the can - that is us.
We have a new neighbor Peter, solo sailing on Bowtie Lady who left Sydney, Australia a couple years ago going through the Indian Ocean, around Cape Good Hope, across the Atlantic, up through the Carribean to New York and back down to Marathon. His stories are facinating and made more so by his accent. However I am not tempted to emulate his adventure even with intrepid sailor De Anne at my side. As Dirty Harry said "A man's got to know his limitations". A few days at a time at sea is sufficent for my adventure level.
Some work is involved in our stay here. I am waiting for my new battery charger and the old has been sent off for repair. A few other boat repairs are on my list and of course De Anne continues her never ending struggle to keep the boat spic and span in the face of Mother Nature's steady and relentless march to corrosion and wear.
The weather makes our time here worth every penny. Here is a sample NOAA report for today. Same tomorrow, in fact as far as the forecast goes for a week:
TONIGHT THROUGH SATURDAY NIGHT NORTHEAST TO EAST WINDS 25 TO 30 KNOTS...WITH OCCASIONAL GUSTS NEAR 35 KNOTS. SEAS BEYOND THE REEF 8 TO 11 FEET...EXCEPT HIGHER IN THE GULF STREAM. SEAS INSIDE THE REEF 3 TO 5 FEET. NEARSHORE WATERS EXTREMELY ROUGH. SCATTERED SHOWERS.
Don't you just love the offhand comment "....except higher in the Gulf Stream."
Anyone wishing to spy on us - we are on the Boot key webcam http://www.ci.marathon.fl.us/index.aspx?NID=600 . On the screen showing boats in a V formation with a can bouy at the bottom of the V. Count up 4 boats at a left 45 degree angle from the can - that is us.
Sunday, November 1, 2009
Different Strokes
De Anne wanted to go to Key West for her birthday, so Friday morning we took the bus 50 miles down US 1 to the end of the Keys.
A little event known as Fantasy Fest '09 was going on. We are still not sure of the event's signifigance; however, it involved lots of drinking and nudity. Our first clue was packed bars at 10:00 am and seeing a man in black boots and a small black cod piece. As the morning progressed we saw women in g-strings and pasties. A little later the women wearing just paint started arriving.
We walked the full length of Duval St. which is the main drag in Key West. By 2:00 pm I was tiring in the heat and suffering from some sensory overload. We worked our way back to the trolley which took us back to the bus stop and "home" to Marathon.
We noted that the job of police officer in Key West must be an easy one. There are no moral or community standards to uphold.
Not many guys can say that for their wife's birthday they got to see about a hundred naked women.
The birthday girl on the pier. Note the man in the gold lame' swimsuit over her right shoulder:
Duval St. in the morning before the crowds arrive:
Some dressed in a more conservative manner:
A little event known as Fantasy Fest '09 was going on. We are still not sure of the event's signifigance; however, it involved lots of drinking and nudity. Our first clue was packed bars at 10:00 am and seeing a man in black boots and a small black cod piece. As the morning progressed we saw women in g-strings and pasties. A little later the women wearing just paint started arriving.
We walked the full length of Duval St. which is the main drag in Key West. By 2:00 pm I was tiring in the heat and suffering from some sensory overload. We worked our way back to the trolley which took us back to the bus stop and "home" to Marathon.
We noted that the job of police officer in Key West must be an easy one. There are no moral or community standards to uphold.
Not many guys can say that for their wife's birthday they got to see about a hundred naked women.
The birthday girl on the pier. Note the man in the gold lame' swimsuit over her right shoulder:
Duval St. in the morning before the crowds arrive:
Some dressed in a more conservative manner:
Tuesday, October 27, 2009
The Adventure continues......
We left Fort Myers on Friday armed with an excellent (and wrong again) NOAA forecast. I don't know why I don't just stare at tea leaves or chicken bones for a correct weather forecast.
Bob from Curmudgon helped us with an uneventful dock departure, the best kind. Our trip down river was aided by a falling tide and we made San Carlos Bay in good time. Just as I was putting up sails in San Carlos Bay for our exit into the Gulf our battery charger died. Our trip to Marathon became a sails only marathon.
Big yachts passing us port and starboard on the river:
The winds were much lighter than forecast and from a different direction, but other than that the forecast was correct with the prediction of a sunset and the correct time of that occurance. We meandered down the coast at a speed that could be generously called leisurely. The pace slowed as night fell. We made 12 whole miles south during the night.
Saturday morning was more glass-like seas and faint whispers of breeze. We could hear the dophins breathing half a mile away. One pod was chasing a school of fish toward the boat while De Anne was sleeping. One fish jumped when he should have dived and hit the boat like a rubber mallet. The Admiral came out of bed like a shot and was not amused. After my explaination, and using her psychology degree to exam the veracity of both my story and delivery, she believed my fish tale and decided we had experienced a new dolphin behavior requiring a white paper. Dolphins using a boat as a tool to render prey unconscious.
Finally, on Saturday the winds built up from the north until we had 15 knots on the stern. By dusk we had shortened sail down to a double reefed main and were still moving at 4 to 5 knots. I began to think we would arrive outside the Marathon harbor (Boot Key Harbor) before daybreak. Those that follow our realtime Google Maps route already know the answer - wishful thinking.
Faithful followers of this blog already know our feelings about crab pots. The more south we got the worse it got. Twenty miles off-shore and we were still dodging pot bouys. For the non-sailors - if a pot line hooks your rudder, or worse, your propeller then you have to stop and dive under the boat to clear the tangle. There is also the possibility of yanking the propeller and shaft out of the boat thus violating the first rule of boating - keep the water out of the boat. A missing shaft would create a one inch diameter underwater opening in the hull, universally considered by sailors as a least desired event.
After hitting 3 pot bouys in a 15 minute span around 3:00 am Sunday morning the general consensus aboard was to park the boat until daylight. We dropped anchor 17 miles from shore in 20 feet of water. At daybreak we could see that we were surrounded by pots as far as the eye could see. We set sail again and enjoyed a good breeze and a pleasant sail, marred only by the constant need to dodge pots. The wind died an hour later. Our last 10 miles to Moser Channel took 5 hours at 1.8 to 2 knots. Our arrival at the Moser Channel bridge coincided with the last hour of high tide. Our carefully conserved power (remember the battery charger was dead) was squandered recklessly fighting a 3 knot current under and past the bridge.
It was now only 3 miles to the Boot Key entrance. We went back to sail power, only to find the most vast array of pots, ever established by mankind, between us and the entrance. After three hours of this devilish aquatic slalom we dropped anchor just outside the harbor entrance and declared happy hour.
Monday afternoon, after the solar panel recharged the batteries and a favorable tide was running, we completed the last 2 miles into the harbor to our mooring ball. The wind was a brisk 10-15 knots; however, De Anne handled the boat beautifully and I snagged the mooring on the first try without any yelling or drama.
We held our usual post-overnight discussion of "never again", but in a few weeks, even this cruiser paradise, we will likely rediscover the urge to move on once again. Next intended destination is the Bahamas.
Our first sunrise over Boot Key:
Looking west in the harbor:
Bob from Curmudgon helped us with an uneventful dock departure, the best kind. Our trip down river was aided by a falling tide and we made San Carlos Bay in good time. Just as I was putting up sails in San Carlos Bay for our exit into the Gulf our battery charger died. Our trip to Marathon became a sails only marathon.
Big yachts passing us port and starboard on the river:
The winds were much lighter than forecast and from a different direction, but other than that the forecast was correct with the prediction of a sunset and the correct time of that occurance. We meandered down the coast at a speed that could be generously called leisurely. The pace slowed as night fell. We made 12 whole miles south during the night.
Saturday morning was more glass-like seas and faint whispers of breeze. We could hear the dophins breathing half a mile away. One pod was chasing a school of fish toward the boat while De Anne was sleeping. One fish jumped when he should have dived and hit the boat like a rubber mallet. The Admiral came out of bed like a shot and was not amused. After my explaination, and using her psychology degree to exam the veracity of both my story and delivery, she believed my fish tale and decided we had experienced a new dolphin behavior requiring a white paper. Dolphins using a boat as a tool to render prey unconscious.
Finally, on Saturday the winds built up from the north until we had 15 knots on the stern. By dusk we had shortened sail down to a double reefed main and were still moving at 4 to 5 knots. I began to think we would arrive outside the Marathon harbor (Boot Key Harbor) before daybreak. Those that follow our realtime Google Maps route already know the answer - wishful thinking.
Faithful followers of this blog already know our feelings about crab pots. The more south we got the worse it got. Twenty miles off-shore and we were still dodging pot bouys. For the non-sailors - if a pot line hooks your rudder, or worse, your propeller then you have to stop and dive under the boat to clear the tangle. There is also the possibility of yanking the propeller and shaft out of the boat thus violating the first rule of boating - keep the water out of the boat. A missing shaft would create a one inch diameter underwater opening in the hull, universally considered by sailors as a least desired event.
After hitting 3 pot bouys in a 15 minute span around 3:00 am Sunday morning the general consensus aboard was to park the boat until daylight. We dropped anchor 17 miles from shore in 20 feet of water. At daybreak we could see that we were surrounded by pots as far as the eye could see. We set sail again and enjoyed a good breeze and a pleasant sail, marred only by the constant need to dodge pots. The wind died an hour later. Our last 10 miles to Moser Channel took 5 hours at 1.8 to 2 knots. Our arrival at the Moser Channel bridge coincided with the last hour of high tide. Our carefully conserved power (remember the battery charger was dead) was squandered recklessly fighting a 3 knot current under and past the bridge.
It was now only 3 miles to the Boot Key entrance. We went back to sail power, only to find the most vast array of pots, ever established by mankind, between us and the entrance. After three hours of this devilish aquatic slalom we dropped anchor just outside the harbor entrance and declared happy hour.
Monday afternoon, after the solar panel recharged the batteries and a favorable tide was running, we completed the last 2 miles into the harbor to our mooring ball. The wind was a brisk 10-15 knots; however, De Anne handled the boat beautifully and I snagged the mooring on the first try without any yelling or drama.
We held our usual post-overnight discussion of "never again", but in a few weeks, even this cruiser paradise, we will likely rediscover the urge to move on once again. Next intended destination is the Bahamas.
Our first sunrise over Boot Key:
Looking west in the harbor:
Wednesday, October 21, 2009
Weather window watching
We are poised to get under way again. The hot weather broke last weekend, but ushered in high winds. We have several memories of the wave action in the shallow Gulf during winds of 20 knots and wish no encore. Friday now looks good on paper, but final judgement is reserved.
The boat is stocked high and tight. We have paper towels and toilet paper for 4 months - barring unforseen complications - none of which would ever be reported here.
Our last weekend (maybe) in Fort Myers called for a visit to a Sanjah performance on Friday. Saturday was ZombieCon 09 day, commemorating the filimg of Night of the Living Dead (or some zombie movie) in Fort Myers. The best part was watching the belly dancer while that old zombie disco favorite "Staying Alive" was playing. Of course De Anne noted, and I quote, "I can do that!".
We visited Cecilia and Denny in Punta Gorda last night and had a great time swapping cruising stories and reminiscing about Four Winds Marina on Lake Monroe where we first met them.
Watch for action on Google Maps, and play connect the dots with us.
The boat is stocked high and tight. We have paper towels and toilet paper for 4 months - barring unforseen complications - none of which would ever be reported here.
Our last weekend (maybe) in Fort Myers called for a visit to a Sanjah performance on Friday. Saturday was ZombieCon 09 day, commemorating the filimg of Night of the Living Dead (or some zombie movie) in Fort Myers. The best part was watching the belly dancer while that old zombie disco favorite "Staying Alive" was playing. Of course De Anne noted, and I quote, "I can do that!".
We visited Cecilia and Denny in Punta Gorda last night and had a great time swapping cruising stories and reminiscing about Four Winds Marina on Lake Monroe where we first met them.
Watch for action on Google Maps, and play connect the dots with us.
Friday, October 9, 2009
...while you are making plans.
Life has been busy!
Last weekend we visited my Aunt and Uncle again and cousins Tom and Bob came by Sunday for a great visit.
Tom, me and Bob:
We have been busy prepping the boat for the resumption of cruising at the end of October. I have also helped Bob (across the dock from us) on Curmudgon, a 41 foot motor boat, set up a new PC as a chartplotter.
Last night I got word that a former high school girlfriend passed away last weekend. I met Liz Dahl my freshman year of high school and we went out on exactly one date each year of high school - the last at the Senior Prom in 1970. Between each annual date we were good friends.
She went to work for Stokley Van-Camp and in 1972 recommended me for an entry-level position. After I moved a few rungs up the corporate ladder she was my secretary - back in the days of shorthand and typewriters and carbon paper. I have only talked to her a couple times in the past 30 years, but her death triggered a stream of memories of a cheerful, outgoing friend.
Life is what happens while you are making plans.
Liz, the head majorette at Shortridge:
Last weekend we visited my Aunt and Uncle again and cousins Tom and Bob came by Sunday for a great visit.
Tom, me and Bob:
We have been busy prepping the boat for the resumption of cruising at the end of October. I have also helped Bob (across the dock from us) on Curmudgon, a 41 foot motor boat, set up a new PC as a chartplotter.
Last night I got word that a former high school girlfriend passed away last weekend. I met Liz Dahl my freshman year of high school and we went out on exactly one date each year of high school - the last at the Senior Prom in 1970. Between each annual date we were good friends.
She went to work for Stokley Van-Camp and in 1972 recommended me for an entry-level position. After I moved a few rungs up the corporate ladder she was my secretary - back in the days of shorthand and typewriters and carbon paper. I have only talked to her a couple times in the past 30 years, but her death triggered a stream of memories of a cheerful, outgoing friend.
Life is what happens while you are making plans.
Liz, the head majorette at Shortridge:
Saturday, September 19, 2009
Finally! Another cruiser!
After two cloudy and cool weeks in Atlanta visiting family, and a particularly satisifying visit with both sons, we made our way back to sunny, hot Fort Myers. Transportation involved car, train, plane, bus, and the last 6 blocks on foot back to the boat. If a horse-drawn carriage had been available I might have used it just to complete the travel experience.
First thing back the air-conditioner was re-installed. While it labored mightly we went food shopping. Thursday was back to business as usual with a trip to the Farmers Market.
At the market:
While we were tasting the joys of big city life a real live cruising boat snuck in next to us. We met Bill aboard Wanderlust, a 40 foot Endeavour center-cockpit sailboat. He, his wife, and 3 children left Chicago on September 18th, 2007 for a 2 year cruise which took them all the way to Venezuela and back. His family returned to Chicago earlier and he departed in a U-Haul yesterday (two years to the day) leaving a for sale sign on the stern.
Bill on Wanderlust: (ignore the shaky camera work)
We did manage to distract him several times in order to glean a few cruising stories and advice. We bought Bill's left over Bahama currency and his extra Bahama courtesy flag which, I guess, means we are now fully committed to head in that general direction. We no longer say we are "going to", only that we are "headed toward". (The discerning reader will note a few occasions where our travel intentions were not fully realized.) This was a joyous circumstance as Admiral De Anne had pointed out to me regularly, over the past year, our lack of a Bahama courtesy flag and the dire consequences which would befall us. Five dollars well-spent.
De Anne - ever vigilant to the slothful ways of men - realized our distractions were causing Bill to fall behind in emptying his boat and decided to throw her whirlwind self into the fray and that I might be of some small use as a draft animal. (those of you who know her now have a vivid mental image and perhaps have had a tiny, involuntary shudder). While De Anne threw herself into the task at hand I carefully husbanded my efforts in order to maintain sufficent energy reserves just in case any unforseen crisis arose needing my attention. Although, when pressed - I did, from time to time, load the cart and make a trip to the truck.
Bill made sure to reinforce our behavior by showering us with cruising gifts. As his waterline rose ours sank. Among the many items bestowed, we are now ready to fish underway, our firstaid kit is now extensive and has items unavailable in the USA, and I now have 12 feet of fire hose - much coveted as the ultimate in chafe guard for anchor and dock lines.
Wanderlust with Rising Star in the background:
While we enjoy the company of several live-aboards here at the marina ( some are former cruisers), it was a special treat to visit with Bill - having just arrived from an extensive cruising trip.
First thing back the air-conditioner was re-installed. While it labored mightly we went food shopping. Thursday was back to business as usual with a trip to the Farmers Market.
At the market:
While we were tasting the joys of big city life a real live cruising boat snuck in next to us. We met Bill aboard Wanderlust, a 40 foot Endeavour center-cockpit sailboat. He, his wife, and 3 children left Chicago on September 18th, 2007 for a 2 year cruise which took them all the way to Venezuela and back. His family returned to Chicago earlier and he departed in a U-Haul yesterday (two years to the day) leaving a for sale sign on the stern.
Bill on Wanderlust: (ignore the shaky camera work)
We did manage to distract him several times in order to glean a few cruising stories and advice. We bought Bill's left over Bahama currency and his extra Bahama courtesy flag which, I guess, means we are now fully committed to head in that general direction. We no longer say we are "going to", only that we are "headed toward". (The discerning reader will note a few occasions where our travel intentions were not fully realized.) This was a joyous circumstance as Admiral De Anne had pointed out to me regularly, over the past year, our lack of a Bahama courtesy flag and the dire consequences which would befall us. Five dollars well-spent.
De Anne - ever vigilant to the slothful ways of men - realized our distractions were causing Bill to fall behind in emptying his boat and decided to throw her whirlwind self into the fray and that I might be of some small use as a draft animal. (those of you who know her now have a vivid mental image and perhaps have had a tiny, involuntary shudder). While De Anne threw herself into the task at hand I carefully husbanded my efforts in order to maintain sufficent energy reserves just in case any unforseen crisis arose needing my attention. Although, when pressed - I did, from time to time, load the cart and make a trip to the truck.
Bill made sure to reinforce our behavior by showering us with cruising gifts. As his waterline rose ours sank. Among the many items bestowed, we are now ready to fish underway, our firstaid kit is now extensive and has items unavailable in the USA, and I now have 12 feet of fire hose - much coveted as the ultimate in chafe guard for anchor and dock lines.
Wanderlust with Rising Star in the background:
While we enjoy the company of several live-aboards here at the marina ( some are former cruisers), it was a special treat to visit with Bill - having just arrived from an extensive cruising trip.
Wednesday, August 26, 2009
Lazy days of Summer
Finally! A few tropical storms and even a hurricane - properly placed far out in the Atlantic. Still nothing that, in hind sight, would have prevented us from moving on down. De Anne points this out on a semi-regular basis. I remind her of my "luck" and assure her that Mother Nature is simply waiting for us to poke our noses out to sea.
Next week we will go to Atlanta for 2 weeks with her family and our sons. Tristan has been sworn in to the Navy and reports Oct 25th in Rhode Island for Officers Candidate School. Since that is when we start south for the Keys we will visit in September. Theron is flying in from Houston for one week.
Last week we went to Marco Island and had lunch at the Snook Inn. The best clams this Indiana boy has ever tasted! It wasn't just a gastronomical adventure, we were also checking out the anchorage across from the Inn. I now fear we may dally there for an extra day if I can't get rid of the memory of our meal there and require an encore.
Meanwhile...back in Fort Myers... we have become sorta groupies for a Reggae band called Sanjah. We have gone to a couple performances in different places. Here is her myspace page for those who would like a sample of her music: http://www.myspace.com/sanjahandharveyhouse
The picture below is the Sanibel lighthouse which holds the honor of being the least picturesque light house I have ever seen. This picture does not really do it justice. It is a metal frame work the color of red primer paint. Our first night after leaving Fort Myers we will anchor in the cove behind it.
Next week we will go to Atlanta for 2 weeks with her family and our sons. Tristan has been sworn in to the Navy and reports Oct 25th in Rhode Island for Officers Candidate School. Since that is when we start south for the Keys we will visit in September. Theron is flying in from Houston for one week.
Last week we went to Marco Island and had lunch at the Snook Inn. The best clams this Indiana boy has ever tasted! It wasn't just a gastronomical adventure, we were also checking out the anchorage across from the Inn. I now fear we may dally there for an extra day if I can't get rid of the memory of our meal there and require an encore.
Meanwhile...back in Fort Myers... we have become sorta groupies for a Reggae band called Sanjah. We have gone to a couple performances in different places. Here is her myspace page for those who would like a sample of her music: http://www.myspace.com/sanjahandharveyhouse
The picture below is the Sanibel lighthouse which holds the honor of being the least picturesque light house I have ever seen. This picture does not really do it justice. It is a metal frame work the color of red primer paint. Our first night after leaving Fort Myers we will anchor in the cove behind it.
Wednesday, August 5, 2009
Free to roam
We finally made it to Sanibel Island and Captiva Island. We hopped from one beach to another moving up the coast of the two islands. De Anne, after careful consideration, pronounced the beach at the north end of Captiva the winner. First prize is a return trip next week.
Captiva beach
This begs the question "how did we beach hop?". By car! Last Friday we had a visit from Lindsey and Lynne who were introduced by a mutual friend. They live in Indiana but also have a home in Cape Coral and keep a car down here. They most graciously offered it to us while they were away. We accepted with profound graitude. Sunday we went to Wal-mart without the usual bus ride and transfer each way. It was quite strange to put an item in the cart without carefully judging weight and volume for the walking and bus riding ahead. More importantly, De Anne feels (and me too) less confined with the possibilities of a few beach and sightseeing trips now available. Thank you Lindsey and Lynne!!
Captiva beach
This begs the question "how did we beach hop?". By car! Last Friday we had a visit from Lindsey and Lynne who were introduced by a mutual friend. They live in Indiana but also have a home in Cape Coral and keep a car down here. They most graciously offered it to us while they were away. We accepted with profound graitude. Sunday we went to Wal-mart without the usual bus ride and transfer each way. It was quite strange to put an item in the cart without carefully judging weight and volume for the walking and bus riding ahead. More importantly, De Anne feels (and me too) less confined with the possibilities of a few beach and sightseeing trips now available. Thank you Lindsey and Lynne!!
Wednesday, July 29, 2009
Friends from Indiana
After a couple near misses of friends from Indiana we had a visit from Brian, Michele, and Sarah today. They are vacationing in Boca Grande and drove down to witness our (semi)nomadic lifestyle.
We had a great lunch at a little place in town, where Michele was able to catch me up on the tales from the Statehouse. We strolled downtown and the waterfront, then back to the boat to await happy hour. Fortunately, since they were in the company of cruisers that time came early. While De Anne doled out G&T's (the official drink of cruisers - medicinally necessary for hydration and malaria prevention) Sarah worked on her tan in the cockpit.
The dark clouds rolled in and the heat broke so we re-grouped in the cockpit for pictures.
I had told them about our turtle and warned of a possible visit. Sure enough, five minutes after they left our "pet" turtle showed up with a friend in tow. Obviously word of our hospitality to reptiles had gotten around -even under water. I must confess that once I tossed some food out cordiality ended and a free-for-all erupted. Even a 3 foot catfish joined the fray, but did not stay long when the turtles objected to his presence.
This morning we were approched by a TV news crew wanting to interview us as out-of-state cruisers about the water quality along the Florida gulf coast. De Anne, having just gotten out of the shower and feeling less than photogenic fled below leaving me in week-old shorts, dirty shirt, and a stubbly chin to do the interview solo. Check back - I'll link it if it shows on TV. This should be better than the last time I was on TV. Then, I was shown walking into the Indiana Statehouse while the voice-over explained the need for more Statehouse security measures. I appeared very sinister and they used it for months as stock footage.
We have others coming Friday. All visitors are welcomed!
We had a great lunch at a little place in town, where Michele was able to catch me up on the tales from the Statehouse. We strolled downtown and the waterfront, then back to the boat to await happy hour. Fortunately, since they were in the company of cruisers that time came early. While De Anne doled out G&T's (the official drink of cruisers - medicinally necessary for hydration and malaria prevention) Sarah worked on her tan in the cockpit.
The dark clouds rolled in and the heat broke so we re-grouped in the cockpit for pictures.
I had told them about our turtle and warned of a possible visit. Sure enough, five minutes after they left our "pet" turtle showed up with a friend in tow. Obviously word of our hospitality to reptiles had gotten around -even under water. I must confess that once I tossed some food out cordiality ended and a free-for-all erupted. Even a 3 foot catfish joined the fray, but did not stay long when the turtles objected to his presence.
This morning we were approched by a TV news crew wanting to interview us as out-of-state cruisers about the water quality along the Florida gulf coast. De Anne, having just gotten out of the shower and feeling less than photogenic fled below leaving me in week-old shorts, dirty shirt, and a stubbly chin to do the interview solo. Check back - I'll link it if it shows on TV. This should be better than the last time I was on TV. Then, I was shown walking into the Indiana Statehouse while the voice-over explained the need for more Statehouse security measures. I appeared very sinister and they used it for months as stock footage.
We have others coming Friday. All visitors are welcomed!
Tuesday, July 7, 2009
Day to Day
We have been in Fort Myers 6 weeks now with 15 weeks to go. I try to do a boat chore every morning while De Anne takes her morning walk. I'd go with her but I would simply slow her down. We sometimes take an evening walk together.
She usually comes back from her walk with fresh fruit. She has located the best places to pickup mangos, papayas and coconuts. She has found an avocado tree that will be ripe in a couple weeks. These trees are on public land or vacant lots - she is not climbing anyone's fences to get fresh fruit.
We use green coconuts for the liquid to make a drink mentioned in a book we just read "An Embarrassment of Mangos" about a cruising couple from Canada.
We do get some occasional excitement. A couple weeks ago the marina staff towed a semi-derlict sailboat from another dock and locked it to the finger dock next to us. It was sinking and had one of the marina's big pumps working almost continuously to keep it afloat. They found a hose disconnected from a thru-hull. The manager asked me to keep an eye on it. A few days later, after dark, some people boarded and started the engine. I called the manager at home and he was on the dock in under 5 minutes. At brief scene occurred. The owners were one week short of being 4 months behind in their slip fees. At 4 months the boat can be seized and sold. 2 days later the boat was gone, the lock had been cut and a new lock left to replace the cut lock. I can't imagine where a leaky old sailboat with a 5 foot draft and a top speed of 6 mph is going to go in a few hours that the police boats with their 600 horsepower engines can't find them.
Since the boat is tied to the dock we don't get many scares; however, the IRS provided a big land-based one. I got a small inheritance from my mother's estate and knew it was too small for taxes. Wrong. Apparently I am the only person in the USA that did not know the one and only exception was inheriting an IRA. At first I thought I would lose a big slice of my cruising kitty and even sent out a few resumes. Of course that is a joke in this economy. After a trip to the local H&R Block office all is taken care of and the cruising kitty was only dented not broken. My languid retirement continues unabated.
The 4th fireworks display was scheduled to be done from a barge in mid-river; however, after a few rockets.... nothing. A Police boat came by the marina and explained there was a problem with the barge and the display would be moved ashore and start at 10:30 pm. About 10:45 pm boats started leaving and I noticed the bridge crowd thinning. Finally at 11:20 the show started. They had set up just behind the city pier which is next to the marina. I had never been so close to a fireworks display in my life. Because of the late start I think they hurried it along, but that was just fine. It was 15 minutes of non-stop mulitple shots.
The heat is intense. Once or twice a day dark clouds may roll in and sometimes let loose a 10 minute shower. Once in a while it will be a real stom with 60 mph winds, but again 10-15 minutes tops. Everything cools down for an hour, then right back to steamy. I avoided the Indiana winter so this is a little payback at the other extreme - I accept my fate.
My customary bridge pictures:
Looking from the bridge towards the marina and downtown
The anchorage across from the marina
She usually comes back from her walk with fresh fruit. She has located the best places to pickup mangos, papayas and coconuts. She has found an avocado tree that will be ripe in a couple weeks. These trees are on public land or vacant lots - she is not climbing anyone's fences to get fresh fruit.
We use green coconuts for the liquid to make a drink mentioned in a book we just read "An Embarrassment of Mangos" about a cruising couple from Canada.
We do get some occasional excitement. A couple weeks ago the marina staff towed a semi-derlict sailboat from another dock and locked it to the finger dock next to us. It was sinking and had one of the marina's big pumps working almost continuously to keep it afloat. They found a hose disconnected from a thru-hull. The manager asked me to keep an eye on it. A few days later, after dark, some people boarded and started the engine. I called the manager at home and he was on the dock in under 5 minutes. At brief scene occurred. The owners were one week short of being 4 months behind in their slip fees. At 4 months the boat can be seized and sold. 2 days later the boat was gone, the lock had been cut and a new lock left to replace the cut lock. I can't imagine where a leaky old sailboat with a 5 foot draft and a top speed of 6 mph is going to go in a few hours that the police boats with their 600 horsepower engines can't find them.
Since the boat is tied to the dock we don't get many scares; however, the IRS provided a big land-based one. I got a small inheritance from my mother's estate and knew it was too small for taxes. Wrong. Apparently I am the only person in the USA that did not know the one and only exception was inheriting an IRA. At first I thought I would lose a big slice of my cruising kitty and even sent out a few resumes. Of course that is a joke in this economy. After a trip to the local H&R Block office all is taken care of and the cruising kitty was only dented not broken. My languid retirement continues unabated.
The 4th fireworks display was scheduled to be done from a barge in mid-river; however, after a few rockets.... nothing. A Police boat came by the marina and explained there was a problem with the barge and the display would be moved ashore and start at 10:30 pm. About 10:45 pm boats started leaving and I noticed the bridge crowd thinning. Finally at 11:20 the show started. They had set up just behind the city pier which is next to the marina. I had never been so close to a fireworks display in my life. Because of the late start I think they hurried it along, but that was just fine. It was 15 minutes of non-stop mulitple shots.
The heat is intense. Once or twice a day dark clouds may roll in and sometimes let loose a 10 minute shower. Once in a while it will be a real stom with 60 mph winds, but again 10-15 minutes tops. Everything cools down for an hour, then right back to steamy. I avoided the Indiana winter so this is a little payback at the other extreme - I accept my fate.
My customary bridge pictures:
Looking from the bridge towards the marina and downtown
The anchorage across from the marina
Friday, June 12, 2009
A Season Over
The cruising season is over and we sit out hurricane season in Fort Myers counting the days until November when we will be free again.
With time on my hands I am pacing myself on boat chores and engaged in a little trip down nostalgia lane in reviewing our first season. We covered 595 miles - 352 under sail, 236 under power, and (unfortuately) 7 under tow. We stayed in 8 marinas and 11 anchorages, which doesn't count the times I had to pull and re-anchor in the same vicinity.
Our season was a half season since I was working during November and December and then came the 6 weeks of waiting in Mobile. Of the 105 days total since leaving Mobile we traveled 21 days, voluntarily remained in port 52 days, and had 32 days of weather forced inactivity.
Some cruisers we have met along the way are far ahead of us. Sadly, several have succumbed to the rigors of cruising. It is a hard lifestyle that punishes a wrong decision, a moment of inattention or just bad luck. In the real world (or unreal, depending on your point of view) there is much cushioning. Here, as I have said before, Mother Nature wins.
The rewards however are truly spectacular. I wish I could share adaquately the following experiences:
Sailing a beam reach down Sarasota Bay.
We have seen hundreds of dolphins and had up to 30 surrounding our boat at one time, but I have yet to get a good picture.
The ospry is a magnificent bird that has a silly, high pitched cry.
If you want a truly religious experience take a small boat 30 or 40 miles offshore in heavy weather.
The feeling of accomplishment and sense of relief when you run a channel and spot your anchorage after a day or two at sea.
The asmatic wheeze of a 4 foot long sea turtle surfacing.
Appreciation for a capable wife/sailor
The jubilation of going a whole day without scraping bottom.
When a pelican hits the water after a fish, the sound is like a fat man doing a belly flop.
The excitement of a correct weather forecast.
White powder sand under your bare feet.
Bucking the tide in Captiva Pass
Finding ripe mangos just laying on the ground.
Waves over the bow.
I know what you are thinking - you can almost hear Julie Andrews singing "These are a few of my favorite things" in the background.
Since we are docked for an extended period my blog output will slow down until cruising resumes.
At the Ft. Myers dock with a cruising Mainship 35 in the background:
With time on my hands I am pacing myself on boat chores and engaged in a little trip down nostalgia lane in reviewing our first season. We covered 595 miles - 352 under sail, 236 under power, and (unfortuately) 7 under tow. We stayed in 8 marinas and 11 anchorages, which doesn't count the times I had to pull and re-anchor in the same vicinity.
Our season was a half season since I was working during November and December and then came the 6 weeks of waiting in Mobile. Of the 105 days total since leaving Mobile we traveled 21 days, voluntarily remained in port 52 days, and had 32 days of weather forced inactivity.
Some cruisers we have met along the way are far ahead of us. Sadly, several have succumbed to the rigors of cruising. It is a hard lifestyle that punishes a wrong decision, a moment of inattention or just bad luck. In the real world (or unreal, depending on your point of view) there is much cushioning. Here, as I have said before, Mother Nature wins.
The rewards however are truly spectacular. I wish I could share adaquately the following experiences:
Sailing a beam reach down Sarasota Bay.
We have seen hundreds of dolphins and had up to 30 surrounding our boat at one time, but I have yet to get a good picture.
The ospry is a magnificent bird that has a silly, high pitched cry.
If you want a truly religious experience take a small boat 30 or 40 miles offshore in heavy weather.
The feeling of accomplishment and sense of relief when you run a channel and spot your anchorage after a day or two at sea.
The asmatic wheeze of a 4 foot long sea turtle surfacing.
Appreciation for a capable wife/sailor
The jubilation of going a whole day without scraping bottom.
When a pelican hits the water after a fish, the sound is like a fat man doing a belly flop.
The excitement of a correct weather forecast.
White powder sand under your bare feet.
Bucking the tide in Captiva Pass
Finding ripe mangos just laying on the ground.
Waves over the bow.
I know what you are thinking - you can almost hear Julie Andrews singing "These are a few of my favorite things" in the background.
Since we are docked for an extended period my blog output will slow down until cruising resumes.
At the Ft. Myers dock with a cruising Mainship 35 in the background:
Sunday, June 7, 2009
El Cheapo
All cruisers are cheapskates. I am not sure if cheapskates become cruisers or vice versa.We like to sail - even if it is only to turn off the expensive motor and generator. Some cruisers (and you know who you are!) will dumpster dive while owning a financial profolio. Goodwill is a good place to shop for clothes, but church thrift shops are better. Cruisers always get the day pass for the bus and plan detailed shopping expeditions - leaving the day pass a tattered mess by the end of the day.
De Anne and I fit the profile. Tuesday we went to Fort Myers Beach (15 miles south of Fort Myers). For the two $2.50 day passes we took 4 bus rides and 3 trolley rides. We walked the beach in the morning - and we've seen better, walked through town, passing up numerous resturants, until we dined off the McDonalds dollar menu. First McD fries I have had in five months - a new record!
Thursday we walked to the once-a-week farmers market conenviently located a few blocks away. For $9 we stocked up on fruit and produce for the week. Our $9 got us a watermelon, 6 peaches, 2 avacados, 3 cucumbers, and 3 green peppers. A cheapskate's dream!
On the first Friday evening each month the City sponsors an Art Walk. Downtown businesses host different artists in their stores complete with food and drink. The Art Museum had a free play and a great buffet. For a "suggested" $5 donation we had wine, great food, and saw a good stage comedy. Their sausage casserole with 5 kinds of sausages, potatoes, and plantains was so good I had three (although small) plate loads. After touring the downtown locations, some with better finger food than others, we rested in the square and listened to a blues group for a while. Last stop on the tour was a restored 1901 Victorian home to view some more art work (more wine and finally dessert). While talking to the curator of the home we were invited back for a tour of the house next week. Another fun and inexpensive evening lined up for next week.
De Anne and I fit the profile. Tuesday we went to Fort Myers Beach (15 miles south of Fort Myers). For the two $2.50 day passes we took 4 bus rides and 3 trolley rides. We walked the beach in the morning - and we've seen better, walked through town, passing up numerous resturants, until we dined off the McDonalds dollar menu. First McD fries I have had in five months - a new record!
Thursday we walked to the once-a-week farmers market conenviently located a few blocks away. For $9 we stocked up on fruit and produce for the week. Our $9 got us a watermelon, 6 peaches, 2 avacados, 3 cucumbers, and 3 green peppers. A cheapskate's dream!
On the first Friday evening each month the City sponsors an Art Walk. Downtown businesses host different artists in their stores complete with food and drink. The Art Museum had a free play and a great buffet. For a "suggested" $5 donation we had wine, great food, and saw a good stage comedy. Their sausage casserole with 5 kinds of sausages, potatoes, and plantains was so good I had three (although small) plate loads. After touring the downtown locations, some with better finger food than others, we rested in the square and listened to a blues group for a while. Last stop on the tour was a restored 1901 Victorian home to view some more art work (more wine and finally dessert). While talking to the curator of the home we were invited back for a tour of the house next week. Another fun and inexpensive evening lined up for next week.
Monday, June 1, 2009
In Memory of Brigadoon
One thing about cruising is the friends you make so fast. We stay in contact, if not frequently, at least occasionally with a dozen cruisers we have met along the way. Big boat, small boat, experienced or novice, we are all tiny to Mother Nature so trust and camaraderie form quickly.
We met Skip and Caroline on Brigadoon in Destin. Last Thursday I got an email from Skip saying he had just started a blog and that they were in Carrabelle getting ready to make the Big Bend crossing (see our April 11th post: "A Hard Day's Night).
A couple hours ago I found out they lost their boat. I recommend reading his account. http://cruisingwithbrigadoon.blogspot.com/
We met Skip and Caroline on Brigadoon in Destin. Last Thursday I got an email from Skip saying he had just started a blog and that they were in Carrabelle getting ready to make the Big Bend crossing (see our April 11th post: "A Hard Day's Night).
A couple hours ago I found out they lost their boat. I recommend reading his account. http://cruisingwithbrigadoon.blogspot.com/
Sunday, May 31, 2009
City of Palms
Fort Myers calls itself the "The City of Palms". It is true. It seems like you can never get more than ten feet away from one. The marina is on the riverfront in the downtown historic district. A lot of money has been spent on brick sidewalks, brick streets, old-style street lights, building facades, and of course, more palm trees. It is about 90% done and is a beautiful downtown.
Downtown Ft. Myers:
The marina is full of trawlers trying to cover their insurance requirements by moving north out of the main hurricane zone. Watching them dock is not nearly as much fun as watching sailboats dock. With two engines and a bow thruster they can turn 360's in their own length. A beautiful North Harbor N37 pulled in next to us tonight and had some trouble docking. They were embarrassed, but we assured them that we had done worse more than once. The marina dock hand had to jump aboard several times to fix the lines and lost his VHF radio overboard. When it surfaced De Anne and I kept an eye on it until he got the marina boat to fish it out.
And speaking of fishing... Our first full day here I pumped out our holding tank. We have been in a couple marinas that claimed to have dockside pumpout. This is the first that has it working. I opened the box, leaving the lid up where the instructions were printed, took out the hose, connected both ends, and turned it on (waiting for the punch line?.... hang on!). It worked great! I turned it off, dipped the hose in the water and back on to rinse it out, shut everything off, when a gust of wind caught the open lid of the empty hose storage box and tipped it into the water. I watched horrified for a few seconds as it sank out of sight. I reported it at the office and they sent a dockhand out to stare into the water. I got out a couple boat hooks and we both laid on the concrete dock fishing for the box. After a few minutes I snagged the lid and we were able to rescue it. No CPR required.
We have doubled our dock lines (a marina requirement) and put up the sun shade (dorky looking). It has been in the ninetys; however, on the waterfront, in the shade, with the breezes coming up river, we have not suffered yet. First time I break a real sweat I will take a bus to Walmart for a hundred dollar air conditioner, mount it in the main hatch, and tarp it over. The dorky sunshade will hide the dorky air conditioner.
Ft. Myers City marina:
Downtown Ft. Myers:
The marina is full of trawlers trying to cover their insurance requirements by moving north out of the main hurricane zone. Watching them dock is not nearly as much fun as watching sailboats dock. With two engines and a bow thruster they can turn 360's in their own length. A beautiful North Harbor N37 pulled in next to us tonight and had some trouble docking. They were embarrassed, but we assured them that we had done worse more than once. The marina dock hand had to jump aboard several times to fix the lines and lost his VHF radio overboard. When it surfaced De Anne and I kept an eye on it until he got the marina boat to fish it out.
And speaking of fishing... Our first full day here I pumped out our holding tank. We have been in a couple marinas that claimed to have dockside pumpout. This is the first that has it working. I opened the box, leaving the lid up where the instructions were printed, took out the hose, connected both ends, and turned it on (waiting for the punch line?.... hang on!). It worked great! I turned it off, dipped the hose in the water and back on to rinse it out, shut everything off, when a gust of wind caught the open lid of the empty hose storage box and tipped it into the water. I watched horrified for a few seconds as it sank out of sight. I reported it at the office and they sent a dockhand out to stare into the water. I got out a couple boat hooks and we both laid on the concrete dock fishing for the box. After a few minutes I snagged the lid and we were able to rescue it. No CPR required.
We have doubled our dock lines (a marina requirement) and put up the sun shade (dorky looking). It has been in the ninetys; however, on the waterfront, in the shade, with the breezes coming up river, we have not suffered yet. First time I break a real sweat I will take a bus to Walmart for a hundred dollar air conditioner, mount it in the main hatch, and tarp it over. The dorky sunshade will hide the dorky air conditioner.
Ft. Myers City marina:
Wednesday, May 27, 2009
Back to Civilization
We arrived in Ft.Myers a couple hours ago and I have internet for the first time in almost two weeks. Below is a compilation of the time "away".
Sunday 5/17
We left Sarasota on Friday with hopes of a marina berth in Venice. The marina told me over the phone that they were full. Plan B was to dock at a free slip at a Venice city park with 3 slips that allowed one overnight stay. We arrived at 2:00 pm but the slips were taken. Plan C was to anchor just off the slips. Pulling in beside another sailboat we went aground. Trying to motor off didn't work so I ran back and forth rocking the boat - to no avail. We launched the dingy and I tried pushing and pulling but only succeeded in turning us 90 degrees. A week and a half earlier in Clearwater I had upgraded my towing insurance to the Gold package for another $78. That saved me $490 when TowUS came out to pull us off. We moved 100 yards back down the channel and tucked in behind a marker, got stuck again, got off ourselves, and rigged front and stern anchors to hold us squarely in the little bit of water deep enough for us. Other cruisers came in and packed the small anchorage tight. The last few boats came in one channel, saw there was no room, and went out the other channel.
The tight little anchorage in Venice:
We left the next morning in light east winds that were predicted to switch northeast. NOAA (once again) was wrong exactly 100%. The wind switched to the southwest, not the predicted northeast. We tacked a 55 mile course to cover the 32 miles to Boca Grande, anchoring about 6:30 pm. A man in a speedboat stopped by, said he was once a sailor, and recommended we move to a more sheltered anchorage about 2 miles north. I had read about the anchorage he was referring to in the cruising guide so we decided to move. A very bad decision.
As we entered the Boca Grande yacht basin, just after sunset, a massive thunderstorm came roaring in. We were 200 yards from the anchorage when we went aground again, in the middle of the narrow channel. The wind pivoted the boat almost into an enclosed boat garage attached to a waterfront home. With De Anne at the helm giving full throttle in reverse and me at the bow pushing off the corner of the garage the boat spun with the wind and lay parallel to a sea wall. The wind drove the boat further toward the seawall and the list increased to 20 degrees. The keel and rudder pounded with every gust and wave. The noise of the storm and the sounds from the boat were a horrible grinding, big slams, all with the background of howling wind. De Anne broke out life vests and prepared waterproof bags of our few important things. I called the Coast Guard and told them our situation, and that no lives were in jepordy. We could have waded to shore if necessary. They called TowUS for us. This time it took quite a while to get us off. The tow captain had to zig-zag back and forth for at least a half hour to inch us off.
Because of the rudder damage we were towed to the nearest marina that does boat repair in the area, Gasparilla. We arrived at the marina about midnight. Total cost of the tow was $1,149 - my cost $0. My $78 investment saved us over $1,600 in the past 2 days. My hope is to never increase my savings like that again.
Of course errors in judgement led to the need for "Unlimited Gold Card" towing. We knew there was only one small anchorage in Venice if the one deep-draft marina was full. We left Sarasota on Friday knowing the weekend and huge amounts of boat traffic were aganist us. We will now move on Friday, Saturday, or Sunday only in open water - never in the intercoastal. Boat traffic from Clearwater south is enormously greater than central or northern Florida. Second lesson - If the anchor is down with lots of clear room around us we will stay put for the night. I had 100 feet of chain out in 10 feet of water so we were quite likely secure. In the future, I will smile, and say thanks to folks with well-intentioned advice, but that is all.
I'm getting tired of going aground but it seems that's not unusual on the Florida gulf coast. Skinny water is everywhere and the NOAA charts are only a bit more reliable than their weather predictions. As a slight modifer I do understand that shoaling and silting are constant here. The TowUS guy said his work is steady and some days he'll pull the same boat twice in one day. Misery loves company.
The good news! We got real showers today. A quart of water and a damp washcloth only go so far during 10 days of anchoring. De Anne washed clothes too although we are not going through many now in warmer weather. Shorts and tank tops or tees don't make a big pile, especially when you wear the same set for three days. Gentle Reader, don't be squemish - this is the "dirty" secret of all cruisers - except the ones that go a week between changes. Just as you can tell a cruising boat by the junk on deck, you can spot the "refined slob" look of the cruisers. The uniform shirt of male cruisers is the "old men rule" tee-shirt.
Update Tuesday 5/19
We met Steve and Mark on Periwinkle, a Pearson 39, when they pulled in with engine problems and docked next to us. They left today headed south with a goal of Miami in a week. With gale force winds predicted tonight and tomorrow I'll be thinking of them tonight as we sit safe in a protected marina tied to a floating dock.
Periwinkle at the dock with Rising Star:
De Anne and I took a long walk this afternoon between rain showers (actually, huge gully-washers) and discovered we were in the middle of nowhere, unless we wanted a bait shop or to charter a fishing boat. After we returned she struck out on her own in a different direction and learned a new Florida lesson - watch for gators. She almost stepped on a 6 foot gator. The rest of her walk was on red alert.
We await a pull to assess the damage from the storm grounding. The almost constant storms have set the marina travellift schedule back. After repairs our next destination is North Captiva 18 miles south, then to Ft. Myers city marina which we will use as a base during huricane season.
Update Wednesday 5/20
The Gasparilla Marina folks have been very good to us. The office manager printed out my insurance form and faxed it for me. The Ship's Store manager discounted my dockage for the week by $200 and is driving us to Publix tomorrow to stock up on food.
Update Sunday 5/24
The Marina pulled us on Friday.The rudder damage was not near as bad as I had feared. They glassed the ragged bottom, checked it inside and out, epoxied it and bottom coated. The bill was $670 and my deductable on insurance is $640, so no sense in turning it in. I also took advantage of being out of the water to have them put on a bigger, fixed blade, bronze prop and committed my Kiwi composite folding prop to backup. De Anne is fearful of a loss in sailing speed, but after 4 months understands because of how much motoring we do - despite our best efforts.
The rudder repairs:
We launched Saturday and promptly broke one of our rules (no weekend travel)and set out down the intercoastal. It was thick with big and small boats - all with big wakes. The new prop seemed to help with a bit more speed. We arrived in North Captiva and anchored across the channel behind Cayo Costa island. Then we broke another rule (leaving a decent anchorage for no compelling reason) and decided to anchor behind North Captiva and be closer. We did not run aground (chart says 9 feet of water), but at 5 feet on the depth meter I tossed out the anchor. De Anne went ashore to visit her sister. Turned out to be a bad spot when the keel started hitting bottom about midnight. We raised anchor and moved 100 yards to 12 feet of water and re-anchored. After a night on anchor watch we (me!) raised the anchor yet again at 7:00am and headed back to the original spot.
Update Monday 5/25
We spent the morning ashore on Cayo Costa. It was a shell collectors paradise! There was even a 7 foot dead nurse shark washed ashore. Back on the boat we watched huge sea turtles, dolphins, and lots of big manta rays- some in groups.
The view of Captiva Pass from Lisa and DeLinda's porch:
The view of Captiva Pass from Rising Star:
Sunday 5/17
We left Sarasota on Friday with hopes of a marina berth in Venice. The marina told me over the phone that they were full. Plan B was to dock at a free slip at a Venice city park with 3 slips that allowed one overnight stay. We arrived at 2:00 pm but the slips were taken. Plan C was to anchor just off the slips. Pulling in beside another sailboat we went aground. Trying to motor off didn't work so I ran back and forth rocking the boat - to no avail. We launched the dingy and I tried pushing and pulling but only succeeded in turning us 90 degrees. A week and a half earlier in Clearwater I had upgraded my towing insurance to the Gold package for another $78. That saved me $490 when TowUS came out to pull us off. We moved 100 yards back down the channel and tucked in behind a marker, got stuck again, got off ourselves, and rigged front and stern anchors to hold us squarely in the little bit of water deep enough for us. Other cruisers came in and packed the small anchorage tight. The last few boats came in one channel, saw there was no room, and went out the other channel.
The tight little anchorage in Venice:
We left the next morning in light east winds that were predicted to switch northeast. NOAA (once again) was wrong exactly 100%. The wind switched to the southwest, not the predicted northeast. We tacked a 55 mile course to cover the 32 miles to Boca Grande, anchoring about 6:30 pm. A man in a speedboat stopped by, said he was once a sailor, and recommended we move to a more sheltered anchorage about 2 miles north. I had read about the anchorage he was referring to in the cruising guide so we decided to move. A very bad decision.
As we entered the Boca Grande yacht basin, just after sunset, a massive thunderstorm came roaring in. We were 200 yards from the anchorage when we went aground again, in the middle of the narrow channel. The wind pivoted the boat almost into an enclosed boat garage attached to a waterfront home. With De Anne at the helm giving full throttle in reverse and me at the bow pushing off the corner of the garage the boat spun with the wind and lay parallel to a sea wall. The wind drove the boat further toward the seawall and the list increased to 20 degrees. The keel and rudder pounded with every gust and wave. The noise of the storm and the sounds from the boat were a horrible grinding, big slams, all with the background of howling wind. De Anne broke out life vests and prepared waterproof bags of our few important things. I called the Coast Guard and told them our situation, and that no lives were in jepordy. We could have waded to shore if necessary. They called TowUS for us. This time it took quite a while to get us off. The tow captain had to zig-zag back and forth for at least a half hour to inch us off.
Because of the rudder damage we were towed to the nearest marina that does boat repair in the area, Gasparilla. We arrived at the marina about midnight. Total cost of the tow was $1,149 - my cost $0. My $78 investment saved us over $1,600 in the past 2 days. My hope is to never increase my savings like that again.
Of course errors in judgement led to the need for "Unlimited Gold Card" towing. We knew there was only one small anchorage in Venice if the one deep-draft marina was full. We left Sarasota on Friday knowing the weekend and huge amounts of boat traffic were aganist us. We will now move on Friday, Saturday, or Sunday only in open water - never in the intercoastal. Boat traffic from Clearwater south is enormously greater than central or northern Florida. Second lesson - If the anchor is down with lots of clear room around us we will stay put for the night. I had 100 feet of chain out in 10 feet of water so we were quite likely secure. In the future, I will smile, and say thanks to folks with well-intentioned advice, but that is all.
I'm getting tired of going aground but it seems that's not unusual on the Florida gulf coast. Skinny water is everywhere and the NOAA charts are only a bit more reliable than their weather predictions. As a slight modifer I do understand that shoaling and silting are constant here. The TowUS guy said his work is steady and some days he'll pull the same boat twice in one day. Misery loves company.
The good news! We got real showers today. A quart of water and a damp washcloth only go so far during 10 days of anchoring. De Anne washed clothes too although we are not going through many now in warmer weather. Shorts and tank tops or tees don't make a big pile, especially when you wear the same set for three days. Gentle Reader, don't be squemish - this is the "dirty" secret of all cruisers - except the ones that go a week between changes. Just as you can tell a cruising boat by the junk on deck, you can spot the "refined slob" look of the cruisers. The uniform shirt of male cruisers is the "old men rule" tee-shirt.
Update Tuesday 5/19
We met Steve and Mark on Periwinkle, a Pearson 39, when they pulled in with engine problems and docked next to us. They left today headed south with a goal of Miami in a week. With gale force winds predicted tonight and tomorrow I'll be thinking of them tonight as we sit safe in a protected marina tied to a floating dock.
Periwinkle at the dock with Rising Star:
De Anne and I took a long walk this afternoon between rain showers (actually, huge gully-washers) and discovered we were in the middle of nowhere, unless we wanted a bait shop or to charter a fishing boat. After we returned she struck out on her own in a different direction and learned a new Florida lesson - watch for gators. She almost stepped on a 6 foot gator. The rest of her walk was on red alert.
We await a pull to assess the damage from the storm grounding. The almost constant storms have set the marina travellift schedule back. After repairs our next destination is North Captiva 18 miles south, then to Ft. Myers city marina which we will use as a base during huricane season.
Update Wednesday 5/20
The Gasparilla Marina folks have been very good to us. The office manager printed out my insurance form and faxed it for me. The Ship's Store manager discounted my dockage for the week by $200 and is driving us to Publix tomorrow to stock up on food.
Update Sunday 5/24
The Marina pulled us on Friday.The rudder damage was not near as bad as I had feared. They glassed the ragged bottom, checked it inside and out, epoxied it and bottom coated. The bill was $670 and my deductable on insurance is $640, so no sense in turning it in. I also took advantage of being out of the water to have them put on a bigger, fixed blade, bronze prop and committed my Kiwi composite folding prop to backup. De Anne is fearful of a loss in sailing speed, but after 4 months understands because of how much motoring we do - despite our best efforts.
The rudder repairs:
We launched Saturday and promptly broke one of our rules (no weekend travel)and set out down the intercoastal. It was thick with big and small boats - all with big wakes. The new prop seemed to help with a bit more speed. We arrived in North Captiva and anchored across the channel behind Cayo Costa island. Then we broke another rule (leaving a decent anchorage for no compelling reason) and decided to anchor behind North Captiva and be closer. We did not run aground (chart says 9 feet of water), but at 5 feet on the depth meter I tossed out the anchor. De Anne went ashore to visit her sister. Turned out to be a bad spot when the keel started hitting bottom about midnight. We raised anchor and moved 100 yards to 12 feet of water and re-anchored. After a night on anchor watch we (me!) raised the anchor yet again at 7:00am and headed back to the original spot.
Update Monday 5/25
We spent the morning ashore on Cayo Costa. It was a shell collectors paradise! There was even a 7 foot dead nurse shark washed ashore. Back on the boat we watched huge sea turtles, dolphins, and lots of big manta rays- some in groups.
The view of Captiva Pass from Lisa and DeLinda's porch:
The view of Captiva Pass from Rising Star:
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