Day Tripping

We took a bus connector, train, then another bus, and finally a hike to reach Cape Florida. We had a picnic at the entrance of the much fabled (at least to cruisers) No Name Harbor. It's not as big as we expected and all the mangroves and thick scrub looked like perfect bug territory. We walked the entire bay edge of the Cape, visited the lighthouse and walked the Atlantic beach at the surf edge.

Back in downtown Miami we rode the free downtown people mover. It runs above ground and at one point was at least 60 feet above street level. It was a great tour of downtown and we marked a couple stops for a return trip and places to explore in more detail.

In our own neighborhood - Coconut Grove - is every shopping, gallery, and dining possibility required by your average millionaire. All within a few blocks of the marina.
Entrance to No Name Harbor with Biscayne beyond:
Cruiser passing by and stilt houses in the distance:
De Anne headed to the Cape Florida lighthouse:

The Last Leg

We left Tarpon Basin Friday morning with the intent of making 18 miles to Pumpkin Key. An adverse wind that was stronger than forecast cut the anticipated trip down to 2.3 miles. Now we were on the expensive side of Key Largo. Beautiful homes and landscaping. A professional water skier was the afternoon's entertainment. A chase boat was filming his midair sommersaults, flips and rolls.

Saturday, with slightly calmer winds and a little better angle we started at dawn. We had the first 2 cuts to ourselves and enjoyed watching several dozen racing catamarans fly by in the opposite direction. Then, we saw the rest of the fleet. Over the next hour at least 100 sailboats passed us. The first few were just south of a narrow mile and a half cut called Cutter Bank. We met the main body of racers in the narrow channel. They were sometimes racing 3 abreast in the 80 foot wide channel. Just for added fun a few big powerboats were mixed in. We were the only boat headed north. It is a miracle that we missed them all; although, more than once, I could have boarded another boat with just a quick step over.

Finally we were in Biscayne Bay and turning a few more degrees north were able to sail on a fast and comfortable broad reach. The only problems of the day were when the generator quit working and the refrigerator died. Remember the cruisers motto - "The definition of cruising is: Fixing your boat in exotic locations".

We are now on a mooring ball at Dinner Key Marina, just south of Miami. Now we start replacing/repairing things broken during the 100 mile trip up the calm, protected waters of Florida Bay.
Our water ski show:
The end of the racers, of course I was too busy to take any pictures in the midst of the channel and racers:

Hummm....Cruising Tarpon Basin?

The title of this blog entry is compliments of Larry who sent me an email yesterday from Marathon. After watching our SPOT positions (see upper right corner of this page) his email was titled the above. Of course it was so funny I shamelessly made it my own.

We anchored on the southeast side of Tarpon Basin Friday and all was well until the wind switched and a storm blew in from the northeast at about 30 knots. De Anne was on the phone with Larry when I noticed we seemed to be underway. In the muddy/weed bottom our anchor held until the wind shifted, then with a ball of weed and mud in the anchor flukes it could not reset. I suggested she say goodbye and take the helm while I pulled up the anchor. We motored to the northeast side of the basin where it was a little more protected.

On Tuesday morning a cruiser came by and asked why we were not over by the government dingy dock. After assuring me the charted depths were wrong and describing the proper path - we got closer to civilization. We joined Richard and Sharron that night on their boat and had them over last night. Alas, they departed this morning, but a couple with 30 years of cruising experience and many trips up and down the keys can take more weather than we can. Once the winds drop under 20 knots we will resume our trip up the keys.

I now have 2 anchors down since Tuesday night's breezes caused us to plow a bit. Not dragging, but a very slow downwind glide.
Key Largo Sunset:
Richard & Sharron departing:

Up the Keys

We left Marathon Wednesday after a planned 2 week stay and an actual 24 week stay.

Our departure was marked by Larry and Linda snapping pictures and Peter blowing his air horn. It was a great send off!

The wind was SE and brisk so we raised sail just after the last harbor marker. We sailed south to the Moser Channel and passed under the bridge. The wind began to
shift to the east (NOAA lies again) and we tacked our way slowly up the bay side of the Keys.

Thursday we set sail again under double reefed main and jib in 15 knots from the SE. After a few hours, and across from the Channel 5 bridge De Anne asked for a full main sail. I shook out the reef and a few moments later the sail just exploded. There is just no other way to describe a 505 square foot heavy fabric sail suddenly releasing the pressure of the wind and instantly becoming two white flags. De Anne kept us on course while I cleaned up the carnage.

I reflected back to a few years ago when we spent $1,200.00 to have the sail re-conditioned and had considered buying a new main sail. The cheapest one I could find then was just under $5,000.00. I can't imagine they have gotten any cheaper since then.

The anchor got dropped while the unhappy sailor/wife and grinder/husband discussed options: repair/replace main, get a power boat, get a camping trailer, get a job....OK that last idea did not take long to dismiss. We decided to press on to Miami.

Because the rip was below the second reef I was able to set the main again (a permanent double reef) and we were off again, bloody but not bowed. I thought of my favorite sailing movie "Captain Ron" and the best line in the movie was "Hey, if it's gonna break, it'll break out there".

The day ended well when we picked up a free mooring ball off beautiful Shell Key.

Thursday was motor day due to the narrow channels and shoal waters all around. We could see bottom all day. Passing through Cross Bank Cut the chart showed 4 feet of water just after the Cut. This sort of thing can be a problem on a boat with the keel reaching down 5 feet. It looked a little better depth wise to the right so I instructed De Anne to hug the green markers. We went aground. I raised the main some to heel the boat, but it was not enough. A passing power boater took a bow line from us and pulled us free. Although the ordeal lasted only 10 minutes the psychic damage was done. I fretted over our course the rest of the day and in two more spots of dubious depth I even considered anchoring and awaiting high tide; however, thinking of the line from another movie "Risky Business" (unquotable here) we pressed on without incident to Tarpon Basin off Key Largo.

We will sit out a strong NE wind and all the weekend traffic in this protected anchorage and be on our way again Monday.

(Pictures will follow when I have a strong internet signal again.)

Latest Plan

We have got to quit saying goodbyes. This is getting embarrasing!

The east wind delayed our departure. Wednesday is the next target date and watching the tide (see...I am learning) it looks good for a 10:30 am departure.

Going.....Going....

The exodus from Marathon has begun. De Anne tells me our turn begins tomorrow.....maybe!
Larry & Linda off on their shakedown cruise:

Our "next door" neighbor Don on Seaquel enlisted the aid of wife and daughter for a trip up the East Coast:
Not everyone was leaving. Peter, crewing for Cindy, arrived back in Marathon with some assistance: